Matinicus Island

A Ferry Ride Through International Waters

I had the pleasure this fall of visiting Matinicus Island, one of the last harbors in Maine that is home to almost exclusively working vessels. There are 60 plus hardy souls that call the island home year-round. There are no restaurants or public restrooms. There is a small general store and an even smaller bakery operated out of someone’s home. Not exactly a tourist mecca. It wasn’t so much the destination as the adventure of the journey to and from the island. Matinicus is the most seaward of Maine’s islands in the outer reaches of Penobscot Bay. We actually crossed into “International Open Waters” on our travel to the Island. It was a brisk day in October, made all the more brisk by the harsh ocean breezes, but it made for an excellent Maine Adventure.

The Maine State Ferry Service offers a ferry out of Rockland for the 22 mile trip to the Island. That was our mode of transportation for the day. The ferry runs only 4 times a month in the summer to the island and only once a month in the winter. Since the trip takes a good 2 ½ hours EACH way, the round trip was pretty much a full day excursion. There are also two private ferries on the island or you can use your own boat or plane. Sadly, I have neither of the latter two options.

My traveling companion has connections with the State Ferry Service and as such we were able to go topside to the wheelhouse to be with the Captain. We watched him deftly navigate the ship out to open waters after first maneuvering around an obstacle course of brightly colored lobster buoys. Occasionally you would hear the sound of one being pulled under the boat and hitting the propeller.

We also had the privilege of being able to stand at the railing outside of the wheel house, giving us the same unobstructed view of the sea before us and around us ... the same view as the Captain. The exact moment when I realized that I could no longer see any land was humbling. I felt so small in this vast expanse of ocean. The waves were rough that day from the remnants of a tropical storm that had come through the day before. We were holding onto the railing and doing our best not to be tossed around. I have to admit to a moment of arms outstretched and yelling into the sea breeze… “I’m the king of the world!” It felt like a TITANIC moment.

Our actual time on the island was brief. We enjoyed our picnic lunch and watched as disembarking cars from the ferry were exchanged for the vehicles leaving the island. It would be more than a week before anyone leaving would be able to return.

What does one do on Matinicus Island? Stare at the Stars. With no light pollution, the stars brightly shine. You can also visit the Puffin Colony that makes its summer home on nearby Matinicus Rock. Best of all, you can enjoy the lack of cell phone service. I needed that quiet respite. Indeed, it was the journey and not the destination. It was a MAINE ADVENTURE.